HL PEELS
Peels Activity pH & %
Peeling is one of the most common beauty treatment and one of the most effective treatments for improving skin complexion. Therefore, it is extremely important to understand the power of exfoliating materials and their compatibility with the customer’s various needs, from skin type and problem, to client’s lifestyle and character.
HL PROFESSIONAL PEELS are unique formula blend of acids, vitamins and plant extracts in the precision of the strength and suitability of the active ingredients.
STRENGHT & SUITABILITY
HL PEELS effective as 24-34% blend approximate pH 3.3 – 3.9
Strength I, II, III, IIII, V means of the concentration and ratio between the acids, is marked with Roman numerals from the lowest to the highest.
Suitability means of special ingredients chosen according to the treatment and skin condition: ALPHA PEEL, ANTI AGE PEEL, BALANCE PEEL, RENEW PEEL.
SPECIFIC & NON-SPECIFIC SKIN REACTION
- The percentage % of the peel indicates how much of the peeling agent is contained in the peel and shows specific stimulation reaction – cell’s activation and skin rejuvenation.
- pH shows non-specific reaction and indicates how deep the peel will penetrate into your skin and how much irritation you will get. The thing to remember is; the lower the pH(H+++protons), the deeper the peel. Anything with a PH of less than 2.5 should be done by a doctor or nurse. Beauty therapists cannot legally do anything lower than a 2.5. Peels with a pH of 3 are what you would usually find in a beauty salon.
HL PEELS UNIQUE PROPERTIES:
- Exfoliates by thoroughly removing the uneven, rough layer of dead skin cells, resulting in a more compact stratum corneum
- Penetrates through the upper layer of skin to begin exfoliation from the bottom up, diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Increases thickness of dermis layer and smoothes lines as well as small scars
- Increases moisture retention by binding with water and pulling it through the stratum corneum, improving skin hydration and overall skin health
- Reduces the amount of surface skin oil, which aids the removal of blackheads and other skin impurities and can help stimulate collagen production within the dermis
- Regulates expression of genes through binding to nuclear transcription factors Increases activity of cells- speeding up skin cell turnover
Peel Indication & Contraindication
PEEL INDICATIONS
Indications related to pigmentary disorders are as follows:
- Melasma
- Post-inflammatory hyper-pigmentation
- Freckles
- Lentigines
- Facial melanoses
- Periorbital hyper-pigmentation
Indications related to acne are as follows:
- Superficial acne scars
- Postacne pigmentation
- Comedonal acne
- Acne excoriée
- Acne vulgaris – mild to moderately severe acne
Indications for aesthetic concerns are as follows:
- Photo-ageing
- Fine superficial wrinkling
- Dilated pores
- Superficial scars
Indications related to epidermal growths are as follows:
- Seborrheic keratoses
- Actinic keratoses
- Warts
- Milia
- Sebaceous hyperplasia
- Dermatosis papulosa nigra
Upper epidermal defects, such as melasma, can be treated with superficial peels, while deeper defects, such as deep wrinkles, may require a deep peeling agent. Medium-depth (superficial dermis) defects, such as mild dermatoheliosis, require a medium-depth peel.
PEEL CONTRAINDICATION
- Continue to have excessive sun exposure
- Have active Herpes Simplex, Warts, history of Keloidal scarring
- Facial cancers, especially facial melanoma
- Underwent any type of recent facial surgical procedures. Recent cosmetic surgery, laser resurfacing, deep or medium depth chemical peels or dermabrasion.
- Retinoids medication that exfoliate or thin the skin within 6 months (Roccutane, Accutane, Trentinoin, Renova, Tazorac, Retin-A, Differin, Avage and Ziana). Used Roccutane in the last year (which increases your chances of excessive scarring) or on an active high dose B5 supplement
- History of drugs with photosensitizing potential. Exogenous estrogens, oral contraceptives, and other medications may be photosensitizing and predispose patients to pigmentation complications after chemical peeling and worsening the skin discoloration that the chemical peel was intended to eradicate.
- Pregnant or Lactating
- Have any auto immune diseases
- Have had any recent radioactive or Chemotherapy treatments
- Open wounds, have sunburn, windburn & broken skin or have recently waxed
- Patients who are mentally unstable
- Patient with unrealistic expectations
Skin Reaction
SENSATIONS
The peels do not hurt, it will be cause of temporary redness, tingling/stinging and heating sensation, and have virtually no recovery time. It is recommended to prepare the client for this before applying the product. After the treatment the skin could be a little bit pink afterwards and may get some mild flaking of the skin but this can be disguised with make-up. With a superficial/medium peel your clients would be able to return to work or go out straight afterwards.
SKIN REACTIONS
- Normal even reaction
Evenly redness over all face is normal reaction, it’s coming up in 2-4 min.
- Uneven reaction
Downtime & Rehabilitation
With a superficial peel the skin may get a little bit of pinkness and some mild skin peeling for a couple of days but clients will be able to resume normal activities straight away.
With medium depth peels there is a longer recovery period, usually a week to 10 days. Your clients must avoid scratching or picking off any peeling skin.
With all peels is necessary avoid sunbathing afterwards and wear a sunscreen, even if it is not sunny, as it may develop brown marks on the skin known as hyper-pigmentation.
GENERAL POINTS:
The recovery time following PEEL treatment takes five-six days. For the first two days, the skin may be looks dryer. On the third day, the skin could peel and POST PEEL KIT have to be used 3-5 times a day to help restore the skin. It is important not to pull off or scrub the peeling skin as beneath the old skin there is a healing process going on. By the fifth day the skin had lost the flakiness and had become clearer, the skin tone had become firmer.
REHABILITATION
POST PEEL HOME KIT(1st to 7th day after peel):
- BIO REPAIR CELLULAR FIRMING GEL
- BIO REPAIR CONCENTRATED OIL WITH VITAMIN E
- BIO REPAIR DAY CARE
- BIO REPAIR NIGHT CREAM
Post peel kit intensively accelerates and maximizes the peeling results for your clients. The products will improve in-salon results and prevent unnecessary complications. The kit addresses three important post-treatment stages – drying, flaking and renewal. It protects vulnerable post-peel skin from external damage while simultaneously soothing and relieving irritation.
PROFESSIONAL TREATMENT (6th day after peel):
STEP 1: INITIAL CLEANSING BIO – REPAIR GEL CLEANSER
STEP 2: TONIFICATION – BIO REPAIR SPECIAL TONER
STEP 3: PEELING – ALPHA PEEL I
STEP 4: CALMING & pH BALANCING – WHITE PEEL
STEP 5: MASSAGE – BIO REPAIR CONCENTRATED OIL WITH VITAMIN E & BIO REPAIR CELLULAR FIRMING GEL
STEP 6: MASK – BIO REPAIR CREAM MASK
STEP 7: TREATMENT COMPLETION – BIO REPAIR DAY CARE & SUNBRELLA SPF 36 or AGE DEFENSE CC CREAM SPF 50
HL PRODUCTS
General Points
EXAMPLE OF INITIAL PACKAGE
- CLEANSING: either A-NOX SUGAR SOAP 500ML, PHYTOMIDE GEL CLEANSER 500ML or RENEW FORMULA BALANCING SOAP 500ML
- TONIFICATION: either AZULEN LOTION 1000ML or PHYTOMIDE LOTION 1000ML
- PREPARATION FOR THE PEEL: ALPHA-BETA WITH RETINOL PREPPING LOTION
- All PEELS: I-ALPHA PEEL, II-ANTI-AGE PEEL, III-BALANCE PEEL, IV-RENEW PEEL, V-EXTREM PEEL, WHITE PEEL
- All MASK: ALPHA-BETA WITH RETINOL BRIGHTENING MASK, C THE SUCCESS MASK, BIO REPAIR MASK
- CREAM: C THE SUCCESS DAY CREAM or any of your choice.
GENERAL POINTS
Many people want to have a more vibrant and healthy face, but different types and concerns of skin need different things. Finding the right skin care product is a matter of determining one’s skin type, understanding what works best with that skin, and then locating and purchasing the right product.
PROFESSIONAL TIPS
DETERMINING SKIN TYPE
- Normal skin
- Dry skin
- Oily skin
- Combination skin
- Sensitive skin
DETERMINING SKIN CONCERNS & CONDITION
- Ageing Skin / Hormone imbalance young & mature skin / Visible wrinkles / Lack of elasticity & firmness /Dull & thin skin texture / Dryness & saggy skin
- Premature skin ageing / Stressed skin / Skin irritation / UVA radiation damages / Post acne skin immunity stress / Rehabilitation after peels, laser treatment & dermabrasion
- Active acne / Oily & Combination skin / Post acne damage & scarring / Black & white heads /Blocked pores / Milium / Balance oil secretion
- Hyper-pigmentation / Sun damage /Photo ageing / Melasma / Post-acne pigmentation / Post-inflammatory damage
- Dry skin & Dehydrated skin
- Sensitive skin & Dryness / Rosacea /Eczema / Psoriasis
DETERMINING ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
Active ingredients are responsible for delivering proposed benefits. Active ingredients are essential in making skin care products work.
- HL products contain powerful active ingredients in optimal concentrations
- Result from first treatment & Guarantees long-lasting result
- Stimulates, but never damages
- Suitable for all skin types & Treats problematic skin
- Maintains natural pH
- Free of parabens, paraffins
Cleansers
There are several alternatives to facial cleansers which have been developed to deal with cleansing different skin types, and to avoid drying the skin. These maybe in any form such as creams, milks, liquids, foams, gels and lotions. Cream, milk or lotion cleansers are particularly suitable for removing make-up and other solid residues from dry skin. They use the dissolving action of oils to remove make-up and other products left on the skin’s surface. Facial cleansers should remove oils and other fatty secretions from the sebaceous glands in the skin, but at the same time they should not remove from the stratum corneum the natural lipids like ceramides, which have an important role in preventing an excessive loss of water from the skin.
THE RIGHT WAY TO USE A CLEANSER:
Gently is the right way. Do not stretch, drag or pull your skin. With the cleanser in your hand, let your fingers glide over your skin, or use light patting movements with the pads of your fingers. Upwards and outwards movements have frequently been suggested as the right way to apply all kinds of cream to the face – this is thought to prevent or delay the eventual loss of muscle tone and the reultant sagging of the skin. Leave the cleanser on for a minute or two so as to loosen dirt and make-up. Then gently remove it either with a cotton wool or with a tissue paper, again using upward and outward strokes. Wipe over the face again with a damp cotton wool ball, and if it does not come away clean, repeat the cleaning process. Finally rinse with water.
Lotions & Toners
Toners are meant to be used after cleansing. They based on ingredients that restore skin’s pH balance. Skin can never get too much of these important ingredients, which include antioxidants and skin-repairing substances such as glycerin, fatty acids, ceramides, etc. The right toner can give the skin a healthy dose of what it needs to look younger, fresher, and smoother, right after cleansing and throughout the day.
HL LOTIONS & TONERS